Le French Road Trip
Exploring France: A Scenic Road Trip Through Wine Regions, History, and Stunning Villages
Verdon
If you’ve ever dreamed of a road trip through the heart of France, where history meets breathtaking landscapes and fine wines, this is the perfect two-week itinerary. Starting in Paris and traveling south through Champagne, Burgundy wine region, and down to the picturesque towns of Provence and out to one of France’s less known, but hugely impressive landmarks, Gorge Du Verdon.
Myself and a good girlfriend I met travelling earlier this year, wanted a French road trip that was a journey filled with champagne, medieval castles, charming villages, and scenic vineyards. Here’s the outline of our route and all the incredible stops along the way.
We hired our van through Indie Campervans, overall I would recommend it, it's a great price point (cheaper per night than an airbnb or even a hostel these days!), but keeping in mind you will pay for extra daily mileage allowance if you follow this route over a two week period.
October is a fantastic time of year to travel, we had mild sunny days, only one day of rain and didn’t have to book in advance to secure accommodation or compete with crowds. Not to mention the stunning Autumn colours of the vineyards and countryside.
Our trip was done on a budget and was around 120 euros a day each - including the van hire and fuel!
*Note that the collection point for Indie Campervans is a fair way out of the city so you will need to catch an uber or taxi as there is no public transport.
Here is an outline of the itinerary and a link to the google map of all our stops.
Roadside Sunflower Fields in France
Day 1: Paris to Épernay – The Champagne Route
Our adventure began with a drive from Paris to Épernay, the capital of the Champagne region. For a scenic journey, we took the road from Fismas to Épernay, winding our way through the countryside. A must-stop along the way was Hautvillers, the birthplace of Champagne, is a perfect place to snap a photo offering little doubt about your destination.
Taking some time to familiarise ourselves with the van and all its nooks and crannies, it had two double beds, one that folds out on the backseat, and one in the pop up roof, so actually can sleep up to 4 people (you may want to be very good friends if you’re planning on sharing such a tight space with so many, or perhaps pack a tent too.)
The kitchen was very user friendly, and it’s best to open all the doors when you cook so the smell of dinner doesn't linger when you sleep.
*Note, we struggled to find somewhere affordable to refill our gas bottle for cooking, while it might be more expensive to buy a spare from Indie Campervans, you might find it easier down the track.
Out gas lasted about 10 days cooking 2 meals a day and boiling water.
We found a gorgeous spot near the river just out of town, a great tool we found to help us choose a location to park each night is Park4Night, it shows a mix of free camping, paid tent and caravan parks, and side streets with quiet parking lots that don't require payment, often there will be some other campers too. The website also shows facilities such as fresh water, lavatories and showers.
Day 2: Exploring Epernay and the Champagne Vineyards
We walked from our camp spot into the town of Epernay, to find a cute cafe called Kitsch Cafe Kup (served a decent oat latte - as an Aussie, IYKYK) and grabbed a baguette and some macarons from a nearby boulangerie for our lunch. We decided that rather than booking a tour bus the best and most affordable way to explore was by Ebike.
We took off for a cycling adventure, renting electric bikes for €28 for a half-day from Pedal and Pop. Starting with a bus ride from Épernay to Ay, we rode through the vineyards, and along crystal clear canals, making stops at Gaston Chiquet and Dizy. The highlight was a visit to Ferdinand Lemaire, where we pre-booked a champagne tasting. We continued our ride through the vineyards to Hautvillers and then returned to Ay along the river. On the way, we visited Henri Goutourbe and Pierre Le Boeve for more bubbly delights.
Day 3: Épernay to Semur-en-Auxois
Before we hit the road, we spent one more morning in in Épernay, we strolled down the famous Champagne Avenue, passing by the town hall’s beautiful gardens, and stopping in Moët & Chandon for a glass of their world famous champagne. We also spotted the Tiffany-blue hot air balloon overhead, adding a touch of magic to our day.
Taking the no-toll road through small country towns, we were aiming for Baune but this route not only saved us on tolls and costs less in fuel, but also led us past sunflower fields, ancient forests, and even a beautiful Halloween-decorated chateau and bought us to the unexpected village of Semur-en-Auxois. This medieval town sent our jaws to the floor, it had not even been on our radar but we were so taken, we decided to stay for the evening. We watched the sunset from a park on the top of the hill in between the medieval turrets and overlooking the steep gorge below which was sparkling with autumn colours.
Semur-en-Auxois
We parked up next to the peaceful riverbank where a local cat decided he wanted to come traveling with us too and spent the entire evening trying to break into our car. I happily let him, but Kate is severely allergic - maybe a good thing otherwise I would now be a full time cat mum.
Day 4: Semur-en-Auxois to Baune via some of France’s most beautiful villages
The next morning a thick fog rolled in adding to the magical mediaeval movie vibe as we wandered through town to one of the local coffee shops. No oat lattes in this town but we were charged a nice local price of $1.50 for a black coffee. We were definitely the only notable tourists in the area, and did meet a couple of locals, including the cat who runs the barber store “The Boss” and wears a bowtie.
We continued to Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, one of France's Most Beautiful Villages, known for its role in the movie Chocolat with Johnny Depp and its history with sweets - make a visit to the sweet shop Anis de Flavigny for a unique little factory. This town well and truly deserves its title!
After exploring, we headed to Beaune for the night and decided it was time for a shower so booked into a caravan park which was walking distance to the town centre.
Enjoying dinner at Le Petit Paradis, a cozy restaurant serving fantastic traditional French dishes a three course meal, Of course, we couldn’t miss trying a bottle of Burgundy Pinot Noir after driving past the vineyards all golden and red this time of year, a delicious VR Bourgogne 2022 bottle.
Day 5: Beaune to Avignon
The next morning, we had coffee at La Crema, where I had the best cookie of my life, before heading out to explore the town. There is a 12€ entry fee to the famous Hôtel-Dieu - Hospices de Beaune- historical old hospital and emblematic of Burgundy, a must-do on your visit and then spend some time enjoying shopping at local unique boutiques.
Our next stop was Avignon, and I was reminded exactly why I wanted to come back after a brief visit here on Contiki 10 years earlier. The medieval castle towers over the walled city, mirrored beautifully on the river. October was a tease with Christmas lights hanging everywhere, but not yet lit. We found a great local bar, Le Tom Tip, offering €3 house wines, and enjoyed a giant €5 crepe from Jean Le Gourmand.
We stayed at another caravan park here, the perk of being the quiet season was we didn't have to worry about places being booked out. This spot was just on the other side of the river from the town and right next to the bridge to cross over the river.
Avignon, Palais des Papes and Point Saint-Benezet Bridge
Day 6: Exploring Avignon
We visited the UNESCO world heritage site Palais des Papes, where the Popes lived from 1309 before the Vatican reclaimed them in 1377. The palace interior was quite bare, but the murals in some rooms were stunning, and the grand halls were impressive. The interactive displays with iPads and videos showing the changes to the castle over time were a fun and informative addition and showed what the purpose of each room was during the time the Popes inhabited the castle. The 16€ entry fee was definitely worth it.
Afterward, we wandered to the famous Pont Saint-Bénézet, the bridge immortalized in the song “Sur le Pont d'Avignon” which was included in our ticket to the Palais des Papes.
Day 7: Village hopping from Saint-Rémy, Les Baux-de-Provence, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue & Gordes
We drove to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and parked for free next to the tranquil Peirou Lake for the night. The next morning, we cozied up with coffee by the water as it rained, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere.
A short drive took us to Les Baux-de-Provence, a beautiful historical town on a cliff top plateau, complete with a literal catapult from medival times. We spent a few hours wandering, finding ancient little churches, cute cafes with views, local art shops.
From there, we ventured to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, known for its crystal-clear canals and fabulous vintage shops. There was a brocant on the day we visited (a pop up antiques market) oozing with old furniture and nick-nacks, none of which would fit in our van unfortunately.
Our day ended in Gordes, one of France’s most beautiful villages, where we found a quiet camping spot just outside the town.
Gordes
Day 8: Roussillon and Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon, Verdon Dam.
Waking up to views of golden mist over olive groves was an unforgettable experience. After spending the morning on our deck chairs sipping coffee with this view of Gordes and delighted in the fact that we were in absolutely no hurry to leave such a splendid destination:
Gordes Valley
Next, we visited Roussillon, known for its striking red-walled buildings and the red rocks surrounding it. We were fascinated at the red rock quarries that surround this town, giving it the signature red colour, but it was only in this one small area, just a few kilometres from Gordes light sandstone buildings.
Roussillon
From there, we continued a slightly longer drive through the lavender fields that were sadly no longer flowering (I guess we will have to do another trip!), to Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon, a fairytale village perched on a cliff overlooking the breathtaking Verdon Dam, where the striking blue waters are fed by the glacial minerals flowing into it through the gorge and all the way from the edge of the alps.
Sainte Coix du Verdon
We headed up to Gorge Du Verdon, the river that runs into the dam from the mountains high above. The Gorge seems to be well known amongst French people, but less popular amongst tourists. The winding drive offered some spectacular views of the orange and yellow trees, striking against the vibrant blue water.
We camped the night at Bourbon campsite, a hidden gem, great for camper vans, with a well-stocked little camp kitchen and a hot (enough) shower. The manager was lovely, young and vibrant, an enthusiastic rock climber (the main cliental of the area) and offered us a lot of tips for activites.
Bourbon Campsite
Day 9: Gorge Du Verdon
This was one of my favourite days, the Gorge has been compared to the Grand Canyon or Zion National Park in the United States and it really is jaw-dropping.
We chose to do the called Point de Départ du Sentier Blanc-Martel which is a 16km one way, but we did a six km return (12km total) timing ourselves to be back before dark. We parked for free next to Chalet de la Maline (a nice bar overlooking the gorge to grab a drink once you’ve finished the hike!) and wandered to the start of the trail which led us down into the river of the Gorge and across the Passerelle de l’Estellier bridge and then along the water to the narrowest part of the cliffs, however the water was a little too high that we couldn't walk the whole way. Nonetheless, we loved it and didn't feel as though we missed out on anything!
This is considered a moderate hike or difficult due to its length if you walk the full 16kms. Take lots of water as there is nowhere to fill up along the way, and remember not to swim in the gorge as it can have flash flooding or the damn may release water without warning.
Gorge Du Verdon
Day 10: Gorge du Verdon to Aix en Provence
Right at the entrance of the Gorge, is a little village called Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, we almost didn't stop here and I am so glad we did as it is my new favourite!
This village is nestled between cliffs with a crystal-clear creek running through it, a tumbling waterfall where we just had to stop for a hot chocolate and soak up the perfection of it all. High above us, up on the cliff is a picturesque little church that you can walk up to and just for dramatic effect there were a few birds of prey circling in the sky. Do not skip this village!
Moustiers-Saint-Marie
Day 11: Aix-en-Provence – The Crown Jewel of the South
Since I arrived in Europe one town that has been constantly recommended to visit was Aix-en-Provence and it did not disappoint. It truly lives up to its reputation as one of the most beautiful cities in southern France. The architecture is stunning, with grand town squares shaded by leafy plain trees, while the bustling streets are lined with cafes, shops, and restaurants. Joined by a friend we met out at the Gorge, who was also travelling in her van, the three of us girls spent the day exploring the town, shopping, soaking in the sights, and enjoying the vibrant local culture.
Honestly is there a better French pass time than sitting with a glass of wine in the sun and people watching in the local square.
Not very French of us, but I have to mention the Thai restaurant we went for dinner Tangmo style Thaï food. This tiny little spot was run by one Thai woman who cooked everything from scratch in front of us and was one of the best meals I’ve ever had (not exaggerating!) so if you’re ready for a bit of spice and extra flavour to break up the usual bread and cheese (not that you can complain about French bread and cheese), this place was awesome.
Aix-en-Provonce
We found a spot to park the car just near the local recreation center, there were a few other camper vans nearby, but this was the only place we didn’t have the best sleep, with a few teenagers blasting music in their car from about 5am till 6am, the reviews on the Park4Night App had warned us of this, but it was the best location within walking distance to town - so choose at your own risk!
Day 12 - 14 : Return to Paris.
The next two days were a long drive back to Paris to return our car, stopping overnight just on the outskirts of Lyon and then at a caravan park next to Paris Disney before we took the car back Paris. In hindsight we might have saved on fuel and mileage if we had returned the car to Marseille instead of Paris or catch the train back instead, I would recommend this if you trip allows!
This road trip through France was the perfect mix of culture, history, nature, and incredible food and wine. From the rolling vineyards of Champagne to the medieval charm of Provence, each destination offered something unique and unforgettable. Whether you're a wine lover, history buff, or simply in search of stunning scenery, this French road trip should be on your bucket list.
Happy travels!
Happy Travelling!